Monday, December 22, 2014

How to Party in Japan

New Year’s is one of the most important holidays in Japan and a time when pretty much every company closes, giving their workers actual time off. So, it’s no wonder people are in a festive mood this time of year. Celebrating the end of the old year comes as a precursor to the excitement of celebrating the New Year. As soon as December hits, people start going to year-end parties called bounenkai (忘年会), which literally translates to “forget the year party.” Most people end up going to several bounenkai as they are put on by companies, social clubs, university classmates, labor unions, basically any and all organization or friend group one might belong to. This gives people the chance to see friends and acquaintances from all compartments of their life one more time before going on vacation/spending the holidays with family.
This is especially important because they won’t see these people again until...
January roles around and it’s time for the New Year’s parties, shinnenkai (新年会). So, yes, essentially these are two solid months of partying.

In a subway station the other day, I found a free magazine called “Enkai Japan” (宴会JAPAN), which illustrates just how important these parties are. Created by Watami, a restaurant group that includes many izakaya chains and TGI Friday’s in Japan, and Yoshimoto Kogyo, an entertainment conglomerate that manufactures comedians. Though it is, at heart, just a big advertisement for these two groups, the features in this magazine inadvertently highlight some interesting points about Japanese society.

So, want to party like a Japanese salary man or woman? Then join Professor Shinya Irie, comedian and self-proclaimed party master at “Party University” to learn the 31 party rules of partying.
Lesson 1, “Preparation”

1. Figure out who should be the guest of honor at the party.
For example: if you want to deepen your relationship with the Department Manager, don’t invite the Section Manager, or you’ll have to pay equal attention to both of them and can’t fulfill your brown-nosing goals.

2. Choose a venue that’s close to the station.
When choosing a party location, first consider the guest of honor’s preferences (people in their 50s like yakiniku, but people in their 20s like places where they can get rowdy). Next, look for a place close to the station and easy to find and make sure you can get cell service there.

3. You’ll never be able to find a date that works for everyone.
Choose the date that works for most, giving precedence to the guest of honor.

4. Never answer a question with another question!
This is especially for the young’uns: When the organizer sends you an email asking what days you’re available, don’t respond with “Well, who’s coming?” The organizer doesn’t have time to respond to a bunch of whiny queries from their lowly juniors.

5. Be careful about your Line group members.
Everyone’s using Line these days to contact large groups at once, but don’t include your superiors in the group when you’re hashing out the details. Because they’re too important to be bothered by that shit.

6. Make a reservation for the after party.
**After parties, or nijikai, are common because most parties have a set time limit of 2-3 hours, so people who want to keep going need to move the party elsewhere. Things might also continue into an after-after party and after-after-after party.**

Lesson 2, Party Day

7. When the day comes, don’t forget these important things!
Drink a hangover preventing drink, get an after party venue, bring coupons, check last train times. Also be sure to bring chargers for everyone’s electronics (various cell phones and Nintendo DS, because lots of people are playing Monster Hunter these days.)

8. Keep your smart phone on hand.
That way you can use it to look up someone’s name if you forget!

9. Play the seating arrangement by ear.
It is an ancient Japanese custom to have the guest of honor enter first and sit in the best seat. Nowadays, however, people tend to sit down in the order they arrive and have different preferences (i.e. in the middle so they can talk to everyone easily, near the bathroom, etc.), so just go with the flow and don’t worry about it too much.

10. Collect the money first!
4,000 yen ($40) per person is usually enough at the average izakaya, so collect that as people come in. If there is money left over after the check is paid, you could use it for the after party, give the change to the lowly young people (because their salaries are so low), or play a game where the winner gets the whole pot.
*Note: This is a high-level move that should only be attempted by experienced party masters.

11. Do the opening cheers with beers.
Have everyone get a beer first (or oolong tea for non-drinkers) because it’s quick and easy. Don’t order a cocktail or something that will take time right away or you’ll hold everyone’s drinking up.
**It’s a cardinal sin to drink before the official opening toast of kanpai.**

12. If you don’t drink alcohol, keep your voice down.
If you don’t want to drink, don’t shout your order of oolong tea for everyone to hear. That will dampen everyone’s mood. Instead, whisper your order to a staff member.
**Because no one wants to be reminded that they’re drinking too much when they're drinking too much.**

13. Don’t order too much sashimi!
Most people think they should order enough sashimi for everyone, but if you do that, there’s bound to be a bunch left over at the end. Just order enough for several people to start and you can always order more later.

14. Learn when to order more drinks.
It’s hard to figure out when to ask people what they want to drink next. Some people want to order while they still have a little left; while others want to order once their current drink is completely empty. You just have to keep practicing until you get that timing down. Also, try to memorize what people like to drink so, instead of saying, “What do you want to drink next?” you can impress them with a, “You like xx, right?”

15. When someone treats, announce it to the whole party.
Sometimes the guest of honor will pay extra, so be sure to let everyone know. They will of course say, “Oh, you don’t have to announce it,” but they will undoubtedly be happy that everyone knows how generous (and rich) they are.

16. End the first party before last train time.
This ensures everyone can get home if they want to. If someone absolutely has to leave early, they shouldn’t announce that they’re leaving. They should sneak away and send the organizer a message the following day that says, “sorry about last night.”

17. Don’t forget to check for lost items.
Be sure to look under the seat cushions for misplaced phones and wallets before leaving the restaurant.

18. The organizer should hold on to everyone’s shoe locker key.
It’s easy to lose these keys, so collect them when everyone comes in (along with the money) and then go set all the shoes out right before everyone’s ready to leave. You’re friends and/or coworkers will all be really impressed.
*Only for experienced party masters.

19. Drink the same drink the person you want to ingratiate yourself with is drinking.
If you want to get in good with someone, ask what they’re drinking and then copy them.

20. Get everyone talking about the same thing.
It can be hard to make sure everyone is talking when there’s a big group, but it’s important not to leave anyone out. So, get the whole group together by playing a game or getting a lowly young person to do something goofy.

21. Play one of these sure-fire games.
Play guessing games using the themes “how much money someone earns,” “who’s slept with whom,” and “who do you hate.”

22. Don’t hail a cab without asking.
Lowly young people have a tendency to hail cabs for their superiors because they think they’re helping. But sometimes those superiors were planning to go home by train but then feel socially pressured to take a taxi instead. Always ask your superiors how they are planning on getting home first.

23. Get some helpers.
It’s impossible to run an entire party by yourself, so get three or so of your juniors to help out.

24. Find out what your boss’s plans are.
When you’re drinking with a busy boss, ask what their schedule for the next day is like, so when they pass out from drinking you can decide whether to wake them up and put them in a taxi, or let them sleep it off.

Lesson 3, The Day After

25. Don’t send a mass thank you email!
It’s important to send a thank you message on the day after a party, but if you’re just going to send a mass email, it would be better not to send anything at all. You should write individual messages to show people that you’re sincere.

26. Send thank you emails at 12:15!
If you send an email early in the morning, you might wake up a sleeping superior. Sending it in the evening might make people think you forgot about it. So, the best timing is in the middle of lunch, when people will be checking their phones.

27. Be sure to share pictures!
Send everyone the group pictures. This also gives you the chance to get people’s email addresses.

Lesson 4, Rare Cases

28. If it’s a tough crowd.
Sometimes all the partiers are around the same age (so there are no lowly young people to divide up the food onto everyone’s plates and pour drinks). In that case, just declare that everyone should serve themselves to make things more relaxed.

29. Drinking with someone important.
Be sure to get their job title right. It took the Department Manager a lot of hard work to get where he is, so it would be really rude of you to call him “Section Manager.” If he brings a woman with him to the party, never ask, “Is this your wife?” Because it’s probably his mistress.

30. When there are more women than men.
Pay attention to the air conditioner and ask the ladies if the temperature is okay—this’ll make them think you’re a real nice guy. Let them pay slightly less than the men. Tell them in advance if the restaurant has floor seating (because ladies wear skirts). Seat a cheerful young guy next to any gloomy old bags.

31. Drinking with a sumo wrestler.
The most important thing to think about is how big the restrooms are. Japanese style toilets are an absolute no-no and make sure the stalls aren’t too small. Sitting at a Western style table comes with the risk of a broken chair, so Japanese style floor seating is best. Make sure to tell the restaurant how many sumo wrestlers are coming so they won’t run out of beer.

Obviously some of this stuff is meant to be funny, but the core rules themselves are quite serious. Based on this, let's see what we can glean about Japanese society: 
Parties are not a mere excuse to have fun. They are an obligation (especially when it’s a work party) and come with strict codes of conduct. There is enormous social pressure to drink, but don’t worry because getting wasted in front of your work colleagues is no biggie. If you can master the art of partying, though, it will help you move up the corporate ladder.

The other articles in Enkai Japan include gems like how to use Feng Shui at parties to increase your quality of life (wearing white at an izakaya will improve your luck), how to avoid a hangover (don’t drink too much), introductions of some of the hot servers you can meet if you visit one of Watami Group’s many establishments, and comedians in a cooking contest.

The best part of the magazine, though, has to be the two-page spread of an entertainer named Habu and his “Tights Art,” in which he uses various colors of nylon tights and body contortions to portray foods and drinks you might find at an izakaya. Shown below in its full glory!
            
On that note, be sure to follow all the party rules, and have a great end of 2014 and beginning of 2015!



Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Let's Learn about Racism in Japan!

Last month ANA sparked a controversy by airing an ad that featured two Japanese actors speaking in English about “changing the image of the Japanese people.” At the end of the commercial one of the men wears a blond wig and comically large, fake nose. When people (mainly foreigners) started complaining to ANA, they began apologizing directly to anyone who called to complain, but continued running the ad unaltered. As the outrage grew, they eventually cut the foreigner costume and an exchange about how foreigners like to hug but Japanese do not from the commercial.

I’ll let you watch the original ad and decide for yourself whether or not it is racist and in what way:



The ad brought international attention to stereotypes many in Japan hold about foreign cultures, but those stereotypes are by no means a new thing. In fact, they are pretty much par for the course in Japanese media. I can think of lots of examples, but I’m just going to focus on one for now.

There is an anime called “Hetalia Axis Powers” that personifies the countries of the world to tell the history of WWII.  As is often the case with anime, the voice actors record “image songs” for their characters. These songs (and the show itself) are clearly meant to be funny. I think comedy provides excellent insight into the mindset of those who find it amusing, though.

**Disclaimer (before any anime fans get up in arms) I am not criticizing the show Hetalia, its creators, voice actors, or viewers. I am merely using it as a lens to point out stereotypes portrayed in Japan that some people believe. I have met many Japanese people who do not think in stereotypes. I have also met many people who say things like, “You’re too quiet to be an American!” or, “You're a foreigner, how do you know how to use chopsticks!?” to me.**

So, let’s learn about racism and foreign stereotypes in Japan through anime songs!

The Good
...or at least not exactly negative.

Great Britain
The song entitled, “The Gentleman that Never Loses” points out the following:
The British are chivalrous and smartly put together. They believe in the importance of manners and tradition as well as a sharp wit.
Also they believe in fairies, curses, ghosts, magic, superstitions, and supernatural phenomena.

In, “Let’s go to the Pub!” we learn that:
It rains everyday, but they do not use umbrellas, because they are “British gentlemen.” They go to the pub to eat fish and chips, drink, and put curses on those they don’t like. Also, they still haven’t forgiven America for leaving them.

France
France’s image songs are called, “Be Embraced by the Tres Bien Me” and “The Magnificent Paris”
Both songs are about the following:
The only place in France is Paris. And it is beautiful. The people are romantic and constantly drinking wine. The rest of the world is enchanted by France, and longs to become its prisoner of love.






Russia
It’s cold there. Very cold. It is dark. They drink vodka to forget their troubles (like problems with other countries). Some choice lines from the songs include:
“It’s cold enough to freeze Swan Lake,
but I’ve gotten used to it” 
“I hope the Baltics still like me
Don’t bother me, Belarus
Drink some vodka and then there are no more tears”

Also here is a list of things from Russia people have heard of: Cossack dance, borsch, piroshky, matryoshka dolls, and the Kremlin.


The Bad
...and goofy.

China
China is a proud country with 4,000 years of history (compared to Japan’s meager 2,000 years) and tons of historical and cultural significance such as the Silk Road, the Great Wall, and Peking duck. Did we mention their food is really good?
Anything that sounds complimentary in these songs, however, is negated by the fact that China is the only country that speaks Japanese with a goofy accent and strange grammar.

The song “Ni Hao China,” is a mixture of Chinese and Japanese, all pronounced with that silly “Chinese” accent. 
This, however, has to be the most insulting example:
The Japanese word for the country of China is Chūgoku. The character China says, “Chūgoko.” So, China cannot even pronounce it’s own name correctly.

(Meanwhile all the other countries speak normal Japanese, but their songs are peppered with very poorly pronounced words in English/French/German/Italian/Russian. How’s that for prideful hypocrisy?)

In the song “Aiyah, 4,000 Years,” China reminisces about its great, strong past, while trying to insist that it has not lost all significance in the modern world.
“I long for the world I once created for myself...
Ni Hao Ma? My body now aches all over
Maybe I’ll try making a new type of sweet”

China also makes reference to Japan:
 “The child I found in a bamboo grove
You’ve grown up strong and powerful”

What this all boils down to is the idea that
Japan = Superior
China = Not a threat

USA
These song are so ridiculous because of the amount of “English” in them that I offer the full lyrics as written in the official Hetalia character image song score book, translated by me with the words that were originally in Japanese in italics for clarity. The only meaning I can glean from this is that Americans have a hero/superiority complex, are loud and obnoxious and are fat because they eat nothing but giant hamburgers all day, every day.





“W-D-C~World Dancing~”

Giving up is Nonsense! This sky
A red line with a shining star.

Cross the borders between countries, sadness Good-bye!
Stuff your face with HAMBURGER
Now, Everybody! Dancing!

Washington, District of Columbia
D.C. Oh!
Charging headfirst! With bravery and justice All right!

1-2-3 & Stand up!
Freedom! Oh!

1-2-3 & Stand up!
Freedom!

I make sure not to read the situation Going My Way
That is STYLE brimming with VITALITY

Ride a UFO watch a movie Hot! Night!
Our PARTY cake is the color of the world! Join us!

1-2-3 & Stand up!
Freedom! Oh!
Use a MACHINE to diet, the results: All right!

We fly our flag proudly Oh
Cross the borders between countries, sadness Good-bye!
Stuff your face with HAMBURGER
Now, Everybody! Dancing!

Washington, District of Columbia
D.C. Oh!
*Not recorded in the official lyrics are the spoken lines, which include America shouting, “Yes we can!” to a background of “The Star Spangled Banner” riffs.*

“HAMBURGER STREET”

U-S-A Oh Yeah!
Aren’t I so cool, get it on
H-B-G Oh Yeah!
I’m the world standard, going on
I only have a map of the USA
I can’t sleep if I see something scary
A Cute and Fight nice Guy?
U-S-A Here We go!

U-F-O Oh Yeah!
It’s my Best Friend, “Tony!!”
U-M-A Oh Yeah!
The more unidentified the more exciting Dream on
I never skip the ice cream after a meal
I don’t try to read the situation, eh-heh
Big and Many is a given
GIVE ME MORE HAMBURGER!

When I’m happy it’s HAMBURGER
When I’m sick it’s HAMBURGER
If you put one on your head, you feel instantly better

HAMBURGER STREET
I’m the world’s hero!
HAMBURGER STREET
I’ll go if it’s for justice Yeah!
HAMBURGER STREET
I’m counting on your backup Boys&Girls
HAMBURGER STREET
I don’t acknowledge opposing opinions, HA HA!
WOO-HOO

R-E-D HYA HO!
Of course red is my color, Because
U-S-A Oh Yeah!
If another country toes the line Power Down
I can’t forget my COOL transformation
I don’t think about things once I’ve made them, eh-heh
I don’t care if you say I'm a fatty
GIVE ME MORE HAMBURGER!

When I’m alone it’s HAMBURGER
During a conference it’s HAMBURGER
I change the seasonings everyday, so I never get sick of them

HAMBURGER STREET
I am the leader of this conference!
HAMBURGER STREET
Super sized strategy, Yeah!
HAMBURGER STREET
Get into the party spirit Boys&Girls
HAMBURGER STREET
I won’t take any criticism from England

If you liken the world to a bun,
The other countries are the
Cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion
Ketchup, pickles, and mustard
And then there’s the main event
Everyone’s favorite, the hamburger
That is me, America

“HERO BURGER, it’s on sale and getting rave reviews!!”

HAMBURGER STREET
I’m the world’s hero!
HAMBURGER STREET
I’ll go if it’s for justice Yeah!
HAMBURGER STREET
I’m counting on your backup Boys&Girls
HAMBURGER STREET
I don’t acknowledge opposing opinions, HA HA HA HA...!
WOO-HOO


The Axis
...we’re all friends here, right?

Italy
Italians love to eat. In fact that seems to be all they can think about.

One song, called “Let’s Boil Some Water,” is just about how much Italy loves pasta.
Highlights include:
“The source of my energy is 100% durum semolina”
and
“Pasta, pasta, pasta, pasta, pasta...”

Then there's “The Tasty Tomato Song,” with the repeating refrain:  “Buono! Tomato buono tomato buono buono, ooo! Tomato!” 
The rest of the song talks about how wonderful tomatoes are and scolds other countries for not eating enough or using them incorrectly.

Bonus side note:  This show’s title, “Hetalia,” is a portmanteau of the words “heta” (unskilled) and “Italia” (Italy). The main gag of the show is that Italy was the weak one among the Axis powers that couldn’t get its act together, throwing a big wrench in their world domination plans.

Germany
Germans are strict, disciplined, cold, and incapable of having fun. And naturally eat only sausage and potatoes.

The first song, titled “The German Hymn: I was Made in Germany” includes the following sentiments:

“Clean your room well.
No complaining.
Maintain the status quo.”
“I always read the manual through.
Exceptions are not allowed.”
“Don’t waste your day off.
Taking it easy is not allowed.”

“Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit (Unity and right and freedom)
I really want to eat a sausage...
Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit
I want to eat one covered in mustard.”
(We later learn that Germany also wants to eat mashed potatoes when he thinks of these core values)

The other song is just about how lonely and isolated Germany feels at being forced to play the villain all the time. 

Japan
The song, “Pardon Me, I’m Sorry,” portrays Japan as a small, quiet country that has always been fighting some battle or another. The people continue to hold on to traditional Japanese beliefs, like reverence for nature, taking baths, and working overtime. They are constantly apologizing and believe “bashfulness is a virtue.” However, they cannot ignore the urge to Westernize, as in these examples:
“I love new things.
I love trendy things even more”
“Fluttering black hair,
Tomorrow it will be mustard yellow”

And here are just a few excerpts from, “The Land of the Rising Sun, Zipang”

“Allow me to introduce myself, I am Japan. My hobbies are reading the situation and keeping my remarks in check.” (spoken)
“I’m trying hard every day
To live up to America’s unreasonable demands.
This looks gross,
I can’t eat this, but it’s mine now”
“Some days I think I can’t keep pace
With such a young country,
But I haven’t forgotten
The spirit of the samurai.”
“If you need something miniaturized, leave it to me.
I’ll even make a whole assortment of colors.
When you work in two dimensions, you don’t get soiled.
Well, except for your heart.”
“As soon as the country was opened,
There was a shocking, immediate change,
We put all our efforts into wearing Western clothes and shoes!
But we soon got too used to them.”
“People tell me to say what I really mean,
But I think more deeply than they do,
So I can’t just convey my mind through ‘yes’ and ‘no.’”

I want to give them points for teasing Japan about the same things outside critics point to, like acting over apologetic, and showing a lack of creativity and individual thought. However, I’m not sure if the songs mean it to be a negative thing. Seems more like they are blaming the West, specifically the US, for forcing them to be that way (and forcing them to fight a war in which they did absolutely nothing wrong) and criticizing Japan for allowing themselves to change.

Most of these stereotypes simply expose a general lack of real knowledge about foreign countries (i.e. Paris is the only city in France people have heard of and Germany = sausage), but some hint at a deeper, darker (willful?) ignorance about world history and Japan’s place in it.

I’m not going to be a downer and start talking about the countless times Japanese politicians and media representatives have been chastised for ignoring, explaining away, or denying Japan’s wartime atrocities like comfort women and the Nanking Massacre.

I’ll just say that, in my opinion, viewing the people of the world as a bunch of stereotypes instead of individuals who are human just like you is a dangerous and damaging outlook that can lead to racial conflict, no matter what county you were born in.

To end on a lighter note, here is a bonus racist ad that hasn't been in the news:
This ad that is all over the JR train system right now is for an English conversation school. The large text reads, “In the global age, the world is your rival. The deciding factor is conversation skill.”
So, yes, Japanese men, if you learn English you will be able to steal white women away from their white boyfriends. (I had no idea I had become such a hot commodity in Japan).
Let’s not even mention the fact that this insinuates the white woman couldn’t possibly be able to communicate with the Japanese man in Japanese. No one seems to think this image is strange, but I’m pretty sure if this ad showed a white man stealing a Japanese bride from a Japanese man, someone in Japan would be upset.